Promised Pictures of Garb Finished and in Progress

OK, so I've been promising and I only gave you a few wimpy pics the other day, but now I have Bryan's camera phone and I got some half-way decent pics of the mess that is my apartment covered in garb.

(P.S. I've decided to ask Becky tonight if I can borrow her digital camera so I can document my Pennsic Preparation. I'm still also trying to get her to come to a small event with me, maybe the Siege of Talonvale in July...? It's in Leslie, MI, like right down the road from us, and Iohann (Dan) gets back that week so maybe our combined persuasion will get her there.)

ONTO THE PICTURES!

So, I'll start with picture 1:

This pile of pure mess was the weekend's first project. Started yesterday afternoon, I had lofty goals for my recycled blue cotton duck and 99 cent table cloth from Goodwill. Well, something got fucked up in my measurements and cutting and I ended up with this mess. You can't really tell from the pictures, but I don't want to touch the thing because I'm still pissed off that I messed it up. It's fixable, and I have leftover tablecloth, but it's just a pain in the ass and spent several hours on it for nothing. Grrr...

Picture 2:


A red surcote made from a 99 cent bed sheet from Goodwill. I loved the pure fire engine red color and had to do something with it.

Well I had to make this the odyssey of yesterday. I messed this one up too, albeit less so than the tablecloth one. I fixed it, but ended up doing some very rough piecework that still doesn't look right, but there's enough fullness to cover up the worst mistakes. If I add fur later (which I plan on doing), no one will ever know I messed it up. Here is a close up of the side piecework that I had to resew after I found out that I hadn't given myself enough room to even get the thing over my head, let along my boobs and hips.


The picture on the top is the side seams and the picture on the bottom is part of the hem. All those lines? They aren't creases. They're seams from the piecework. What a mess! And the hem needed piecework too. It's still a mess. I may be able to fix that when I actually get around to hemming (grrrrr) it. I hope to add white rabbit fur to the gates of hell, the waist, and the hem so it should cover the multitude of sins that I committed in making this surcote. Next time I'm just going to use the dumb Butterick's (modified) pattern front and back for the next one I do. I use it for cotes and kirtles and they turn out fine. I modify it to look more like a GFG (Gothic fitted gown) so I don't look like such an inexperienced moron in front of the garb Laurels (they're great ladies and they wouldn't say anything snarky for the world, but I still feel innadequate when I compare myself to them).

So maybe onto some successes?


I wanted hosen and I got a toile made yesterday with Bryan's help, and I actually cut two legs and two feet out of my leftover dark green linen yesterday afternoon after my very frustrating failed surcote experience. The design comes from the Medieval Tailor book I got through the ILL (inter-library loan) and it worked out ok. I had to tweak the sole since the instructions got cut off when I photocopied the page, but I think it turned out ok. I did the back seam on the machine, but I had to put the sole in by hand since I was afraid to waste the fabric. I think it was worth it, though the hand sewing took me two hours and a bunch of thread. It's sturdy and slightly more comfortable than regular heavy cotton socks for an event. I just need to get the other sole sewn into the left foot and we'll be in business. I'd like to cut the soles for the other pairs I want to make before I sew this one in so I can have a sole toil. I only have a toile for the leg currently. I made it long enough so I can make tall chausses as well as short hosen. I want tall chausses for my fighting kits, so I spent the extra time and made a good leg. The yellow garter you see is a piece of scrap fabric from the next set of pictures. I plan on making some more garters from that fabric. I think it comes from the last Pennsic and it's not even my fabric. It's Iohann's scraps from a houpplande he made. Yay for usable scraps!

Speaking of usable scraps, here is the pile of scrap cuts that I'm using for hosen and garters.


And speaking of piles, I went through the fabric a few nights ago and made them ready for sewing or altering. I have a chair and a couch fully devoted to garb sorting now.

Here's the Garb Chair. These are all projects that I've finished the main sewing on that need to be hemmed. There's probably 15 things here, maybe more. Bryan's three pieces of garb are included and you saw those earlier this week. Most everything here needs trim and hemming. Yuck.

Yeah. It's lovely...like a rainbow. Blue, green, red, orange, yellow, white...Good lord.

And here's the Garb Couch. These are all uncut lengths of fabric or bedsheets being made into garb. I have them all in separate piles so I can work on one project at a time without seeing an overwhelming pile like in the Garb Chair. Did I mention that the cats LOVE to sleep all over this stuff and get hair all over everything. Every costumer I know has cat fur on her garb. Every single one. It's cat's prerogative.



*sigh* It's gonna be a long road to Pennsic.

Yours in Service,
Gillian de Chelseye

Ridgepoles, and Uprights and Felled Seams, OH MY!

So the canvas is bought. $153 at Joann Fabrics for the 60" cotton duck. I had a 40% off coupon that I used to great effect and only paid $80 for the fabric. I got the needles, so now I'm ready to rumble. I'm now searching in vain for ways to make the uprights hold the ridgepole without generous amounts of time and swearing to make them work.

I'm also soliciting help with the sewing part. Specifically, I need a sewing machine that won't kill me with shattered needles or broken gears. I still have to test my mom's machine, so I'm just cutting fabric today. No luck on the camera for now, but I'm gonna use Bryan's camera phone so the picture quality is better.

If I could find a new belt for my mom's monster antique machine, I could sew with no worries and a sore foot from pushing the pedal. But it'd be cool to sew something with that crazy thing. I may try to make my own from a piece of rubber. I'd also need to find a needle to use in it and be able to get the old needle out. Other than that, the thing is perfect.

If I play my cards right, get the sewing done, and find a way to do the uprights, I may be able to use this monster for Border Wars this coming weekend. I still need stakes, but I bet I can either make those from scrap, or use my mundane stakes for right now and get good ones for Pennsic.

So if you're reading and you're a tent expert, leave me a note. I need your expertise. My experience with woodworking extends to a semester in middle school (many years ago) in shop class. I have access to a circular saw, a miter saw, a drill, carriage bolts, and some chisels. I also have access to a dad and 2 grandpas with woodworking experience, but no tent building experience.

Tudor kit for Pennsic class and more

The first draft of the Pennsic University class list is now online. You can find it at http://www.pennsicwar.org/penn36/AANDS/PENNU/pennsic_classes_on_2007-07-31.html

I'm teaching my class twice. First time is on Sunday August 5 at 1pm in AS tent 09. The second time is Friday August 10 at 2pm in AS tent 09. Each class time is two hours and is mostly lecture/discussion. I will be doing a very small cartridge pleating demo because according to every source I've looked at, that's the pleat type to use to attach the skirt to the bodice of the outer gown, as well as possibly the kirtle to achieve the proper "poof" in the back without a bumroll (a later period item).

So I finally sat down and looked through my fabrics to create the 1530's Tudor gown for my Pennsic class. I've chosen my white partlet, black partlet, the gown fabric, and the turnback sleeves. I'll re-update tonight with pictures of these. Oh and I've also got the fabric for the chemise. I think I've chosen the kirtle material, but I'm still not sure that I can layer it well enough to be stable. I haven't decided whether or not to make a separate corset or to build it into the kirtle. I think for ease, I'll build it into the kirtle using the scraps from the tent fabric to stiffen it. Might even cord it if I'm feeling really frisky. No need to worry about a farthingale since the style doesn't need it and wouldn't be period. If it needs extra oomph, I'll make another back pleated skirt. I don't fancy sewing through 10 layers of stacked cartridge pleats in the main gown, so adding another skirt would solve that problem and not kill my sewing machine.

The headdress issue will be the sticking point for me. I can sew decently in large portions, but I do often have problems with very intricate and picky work. I'm prone to frustration in small, detailed work. I also am having more trouble finding good instructions for a gabled headdress. There also seems to be several styles in the way of the veils and their attachment. So much to do and so little time!

I'm going to try to borrow digital camera from Erica or Becky so I can start actually documenting this stuff properly and without a camera phone. Hopefully I'll have some good pictures of everything as it's progressing now. Yay!

When I was choosing fabrics last night, I also picked out all the fabrics for my normal persona chemises, all the hosen I need to make, one of the surcotes, and the bed curtain. I also got my linen tested for a rapier coat. Two layers are sufficient--yay for no incredibly hot rapier armor! I can probably layer the new chest armor for heavies over it and then I'll be all soft armored up. I also need to get a cup for heavies. Fuuuuuuun.

Anyway, pictures tonight and maybe I'll even get some sewing done this weekend.

Yours in Service to The Dream,
Gillian de Chelseye

Fabric Choices for the Tudor Kit

The Pennsic University calendar has been published and you can find it at: http://www.pennsicwar.org/penn36/AANDS/PENNU/pennsic_classes_on_2007-07-31.html

I'm teaching my class twice. On August 5 at 1pm in AS 09 and on August 10 at 2pm in AS 09.

Pictures, Garb, Shower Update and Misc.

And here are some pictures as I promised. Don't laugh at me, the camera adds 10 pounds, especially in bad light and with a crappy cell phone camera. Either way, it's a chemise done. At that point I'm pretty sure that the collar wasn't finished, but now it is. These are a few months old. I made Bryan's garb and took pictures to prove that he actually put it on. He would only let me do the ones where he wasn't in his cote alone. His surcote is nice though. I made him a yellow gardecorps as well that he didn't try on for the camera.

My lord, maybe I'm glad that he doesn't play. He's a handsome devil and all the ladies would be on him. He's exactly a foot taller than I and skinny as a rail. Jack Sprat and his wife, we are. Between the both of us, we lick the platter clean.

So back to this chemise I made. I made two for my first Pennsic two years ago and then fell out the Game for a few years. They were horrible. I don't know what possessed me to make them that way. I've got pictures somewhere, so ask me if you see me and I'll find them. Think drawstring neckline. Also think lace-up bodice. In ugly upholstery fabric. Gawd awful. I didn't want to waste the fabric, so I ripped the arms off and then sewed them back on properly in t-tunic fashion. Got rid of the drawstring, added side gores and properly hemmed everything. The second one got everything except the side gores, which are sitting on the sewing pile, ready to be set in. The second one needs hemming that needs to be done.

Speaking of old garb, I ripped almost everything apart and have either saved the fabric for something else, or already re-sewn it into something fun. I seem to have a penchant for men's clothing, so I've got the beginnings of braises measured, but not cut.

Ok so I have the Velcro attached, the plastic is duct taped for the shower stall, and I've been informed that I should probably be using grommets for the fabric as well as rope to attach it to the poles. Bah. I don't have a grommet setter, though I'm sure someone will loan me one. The plastic is just so you don't completely drench the fabric part. Not that important.

I have the poles picked out. I found four fence posts in the barn at my mom's as well as two shepherds hooks for hanging bird feeders; one has two hooks and the other is a single. I'll be testing the whole thing (including the shower bag that needs to be washed out) this weekend if I can borrow a grommet setter tonight.

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In other news:

I've finished trimming the peplos for warm weather and wore it to the populace meeting on Monday. It worked out well, though I do need a thinner belt to wear with things like this. One more of these to do and my hot weather, camp work garb is ready.

I'm taking my linen to practice tonight to get it checked by Lucien. If it's rapier approved, I can use it for heavies too.

So that's it for now, more updates tomorrow probably, about practice.

Yours in service,
Gillian de Chelseye

Bad at this updating thing...

I'm sorry! Ok, so wasting no time, let's get down to business.

I'm investigating about 8 million things right now and have involved myself in rapier training. I missed fighter practice due to a debilitating sinus headache-cum-migraine on Wednesday. I'll be back at it on Wednesday barring another headache like that one. Not pretty. On that grain, I have some really great linen that I will hopefully be using for a rapier doublet so I can have my arms free. I like the protection a fencing shirt offers, but dislike the 4 layers of stifling cotton duck on my arms and torso. The linen should breathe easier and look better, and it'll be MINE.

Most important projects: the tent, the shower, and the class, all have to be done for Pennsic.

I've drawn up my plans for the tent. It's an a-shape (boy scout tent) tent with 8' tall poles , and a 10' x 10' footprint. I'm using fabric ties inside the tent to attach it to the ridgepole and stakes (store-bought that look like blacksmith made) to stake the walls down. I'm using contrasting blue material for the ties so I can find the ties in the dark against the light colored tent fabric. I'll be using 8 oz. cotton duck for the major construction, with additional strips of canvas on the underside of the sod cloth to protect against moisture. I'm waterproofing the whole thing after I shrink it on the frame and let it set for a few days. This means sewing will start next weekend hopefully. I'm still debating whether to use wind guys or not. I think I'll include them in the plans, but probably they'll be leftover cotton clothesline from the shower stall project. I doubt I'll need them, but better safe than sorry. I'm waterproofing the ridgepole and uprights so they don't warp. I'm still waffling as to what kind of wood to use. I may use bamboo for strength and lightweight-ness. I'm also looking at pine or hardwood, but I'd really like to cut my own poles from the woodlot, but they won't cure in time. The 14th c. structure this project is based on is thatched. next year, I'll upgrade and purchase some artificial hunting blind grass sold under the brand name: Killer Weed. It's a nylon product that never rots and is easy to bundle and apply as I want.

The shower is much easier, I just have to get off my ass and do it. I'm still looking for proper stakes to use for the frame, but I'll probably end up using the old fence posts in the garage for ease, and to get it done. I can upgrade later. Already have the shower bag purchased.

The class is the biggest problem. I have the main research and some of the handout written. I'm also working on choosing the fabrics from my stash and remembering what I paid for them. I still need display boards and pictures of everything, including the construction process. I need to put together 30 cartridge pleat demo strips and make the small handout for that. I need to laminate the pass-around Do's and Don'ts sheets. I also need to figure out a way to scan everything and get it into a pdf file to put it on the net for download for people who audit and I don't have materials for, just in case. Then I need to actually construct the damn thing and document the entire process. A lot of work for a class about making a 16th c. garb outfit on a budget and in the "easy" category. I guess it's all relative.

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In other news, I'm researching my personal heraldry and getting ready to talk to the local herald. Des is great and she's really funny too. Hopefully, my peacock in his pride will get to live on his silver and red diagonally divided background with the line division dovetailed. There's an official blazon for that, but I'm not exactly sure what it is so I'll leave it out for now. Des can help me write it. She's doing this really neat research on a Jesus kite. Crazy lady, love her. I want to submit everything: my name, Gillian de Chelseye, my "arms" (since i don't have an AoA yet, they aren't arms, but you know what I mean), and my badge for identifying stuff. It'll cost about 36 bucks, but it'll be done and I love my name and I love my heraldry so I really want to get it done. I doubt I'll change it.

Another note, I started my warm weather early garb. Everybody needs an early British peplos and now I have one. It needs to be hemmed (spare me, everything I own needs hemming, I hate it!) and I need to finish the trim, and I should buy two brooches to put at the shoulders, but for now it stays shut with sewn connections and I'm happy with that. It also needs a belt, but I can use trim for that. I ran out of trim so that's all that's stopping this being done. So I have something ready for Pennsic!!! Yay! I'm thinking I'll make another similar garment, but it's called a chiton (it's greek and so is the peplos, sort of, but whatever, if I'm hot I'll go naked if I want). It has a different, but similar arm connection, so not that difficult.

Also, I'm trying to finish hemming everything I own. Everything needs to be fixed or hemmed or needs ties replaced that got lost in the wash. I also need to make several heavy fighting tunics, as well as a few favors to give out. I think I'll paint the favors if I finalize my "arms". If not, oh well, I'll blow kisses instead. HA!

I have several veils that need finishing and I need to try out some different hairstyles for underneath the veils. Also, I need to make some basic, front-laced cotehardies, which is relatively easy now. To go with that, I need a few sideless surcotes. This is really easy, but I'm still procrastinating. God I don't want to be sewing on the day before we leave.

I want at least one more chemise for underwear. That's easy too. I've also got plans for 7 days worth of hosen, as well as 3 pairs of braises and one pair of chauses. Maybe even a pair of paned slops (*shudder* I swore I'd never wear them, but my preconceived notions break down every day I find more information about the Renaissance) for rapier. As if my ass didn't already look big enough...

Oh and I forgot to mention that I finished everything but the ties for my wool hood. I hand-sewed everything and I had a blast doing it. I'm still thinking about covering the sew lines with bias tape, but I can do that as a hand project there. The ties will be cotton as soon as I can borrow/buy a lucet to make them. My makeshift pencil/duct tape lucet shattered so I'm done with that.

I also found my basket cane while my sister was cleaning for the garage sale and now I can make a basket at Pennsic.

I also need to start assembling all the crap I need to take and try to fit it into the least possible amount of space. Need to call Dad and Kelsey to see if I can borrow the explorer to take stuff down in. I'm still not convinced we can fit it all safely into Dan's truck. I've also volunteered to help Etain prepare the Clan food plan meals in July, so that's coming up too, as well as paying the deposit for the plan. I also need to pay for my site pre-registration, like next week. I need to also re-up my membership next week and sign my waivers.

Oh and there's talk in the Canton of possibly needing a new Chronicler and I may apply to do it. I like the idea and it's cool to be able to publish things.

*deep breath*

I think that's it, so for now, I'm off. I promise pictures next time around.

Yours in Service,
Gillian de Chelseye