A good answer to someone's question on SCA-Garb Yahoo Group

This question was asked by a new fighter's mother on SCA-Garb Yahoo Group that I belong to. I was impressed with my answer--that sounds self-involved, doesn't it? Anyway, I thought it was a good solution to her problem, so read on.

I'm not sure where else to ask this question.

My son is now an authorized fighter, as of last weekend. Of course, nothing will do but that he LOOK splendid. Problem is, I know JUST what I want, and have no idea where to find a pattern to use or adapt for what I want. Maybe ya'll can help me.

I've seen fighters in surcoats with "cap sleeves" and split "skirts". The coats usually have ties in front or back.

Am I making sense? And can anyone here point me in the right direction to find a pattern for this? I could probably "wing it"....but this is for my son, and it has to be JUST right. (nooooooo....*I* am not a veryproudMommy)

Fiondel

Mother of Arthur Gordon, newest Calontir fighter

Congrats to your son, Fiondel. I hope to be taking that journey later
this summer. As a new fighter (and a girl who loves to sew), I too
want to look good and avoid the barrel plastic/carpet look. I've been
at the books with this problem for a few months and this is what I've
found.

I might know what you mean by cap sleeves, but split skirts are a must
for any fighting tunic that falls below the hips any distance for the
sheer need for mobility.

That said, there are literally thousands of ways to make a fighting
over-tunic and even more ways to decorate it.


Three things to consider when choosing a style:

1.) Is it mobile enough for my fighting style? (This is VERY
important! A fighting tunic designed for speed and agility in a
tournament differs greatly from one for giant melee wars like at
Pennsic where heat and exhaustion become important factors.)

2.) Do I want to research and provide authentication for my style, or
do I just want something that fits and looks good and damn the A&S
exhibit? (The latter is a very valid choice, especially if you're low
on funds/skills/time)

3.) How much money, time, and skill do I have and what can I do with
them? (Cotton bedsheets in a rainbow of colors can be had from
second-hand stores for a few dollars. Please, PLEASE use all-natural
fabrics (not wool though--too hot--although there may be some who
disagree with me) for fighting garb of any sort because polyester will
hold heat close to the body and can cause a myriad of heat-related
health issues. Sewing machines can be found there as well or retail
for as low as $70 dollars and as high as $7000. Will you need help
drafting a pattern or draping and pinning? How will you finish the
seams? Decorate with appliqués or embroidery?)


********
Now onto your suggested style of tied tunic with cap sleeves:

I would wing it if your son is set on that look.

Before you do that, though, talk to some fighters wearing that style
and pump them for information:

Is it documentable and what is that documentation? (again, if this
matters to you, if not, then ignore this question. If you do ask it,
pick a good time--not right before the fight and not right after.
Give them a few minutes to warm-up/cool down.)

How does it wear in the heat? Is it easy to clean? What kind of
fabric? How long did it take to construct? Ask any questions you
feel necessary and make sure to write down the answers. Maybe even
get contact information so if you have another question, you can email
them. It's a good way to make new friends and a great way to learn a
little bit about various cultural differences in the SCA.

IF you cannot find anyone to talk to about the style, I would sit down
and sketch and fiddle with what the style will look like--even if you
cannot draw. Many period styles are based on geometric shapes and are
easy to draft out on graph paper.

This is what I *think* you are looking for from your description:


Body front and back:



Sewn at shoulders and has open armpits, "cap sleeves" attached along
the top of armscye and not all the way around.

Attaches around body by ties at the bottom of the armscye and at the
hip, but you can add more if necessary.

The sides below the hip are open to the hem for mobility.

You can shorten or lengthen the hem as needed.

Reinforce the neck scye, the armscyes, and the ties because they will
get a lot of wear and tear. Plan on replacing the ties periodically,
and maybe after the first battle--a small hand sewing kit throw into
the armour bag should be a part of his armour repair kit anyway.


Sleeve:



Covers only spaulders/pauldrons and ties underneath arm.

Make sure you measure the spaulders so that they completely cover them
and do not impede the movement.

Make the ties long enough and reinforce them at the sewn points. I
would cut them from strong fabric on the bias, or use 1" bias tape
sewn closed.

Do not use poly or cotton "rope" trim from the fabric store for the
ties. At first chance it will unravel or break and it's a pain in the
butt to sew securely onto cotton/linen/anything. If you *must* use
it, get a smaller gauge (less than 1/2") and hand sew it on so you can
be sure it's on tight.

(EDIT 2/4/08: thinking about this more in depth, using tablet or inkle-woven bands, lucet cording, or finger loop braids would be very period depending on what era you're involved in. They look cooler too. The tablet weaving doesn't have to be intricate, a simple one-color band would do as well as anything fancy and you won't be as devastated when it rips.)

***************************************

So I think I just solved my own problem with surcote sleeves. It makes me happy. I like this a lot. Not to mention that a plainer version will allow my Clan tabard to stick out better in a crowd. However, while these plans are for "to the elbow" sleeves, I think I'll be making mine long enough to cover my yucky ugly plastic wrist bracers.

YiStTD,
Gillian