Travelling Forward in Time to the Tudors Again

So any of the five of you that have stumbled upon my humble little site may remember my attempt at creating a class on Tudor middle class garb for Pennsic 36.

Infamously titled "Beyond the Wench", this class was based on my interpretations of some Flemish middle class Tudor-contemporary paintings by Breughel and sketches by Holbein, the book "The Tudor Tailor" by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies, and "Tailor's Pattern Book 1589" by Juan De Alcega for period patterning tips and sewing instructions.

Both books are excellent resources. Alcega's book can be had for $105.00 on Amazon.com, but check your local Inter Library Loan for a copy. Michigan has MelCat and this book is available through this system if your library is connected to MelCat (most MI libraries are). Mikhaila's book is about $40.00, but buying directly from them is better for everyone. You'll pay a little more in shipping, but they can continue their work by taking in a larger profit.

I have been asked to present the class with the completed garments at the end of April for Squire's Revolt (which is to have a Tudor/Elizabethan theme this year). Now you may also remember that this era is not my especial favorite, but something about these Flemish styles speak to me as a female and a medieval re-creator. They can *easily* be styled up or down to change classes. Different sleeves can remake the entire gown. One can really go hog wild with trims and beads and pearls.

Here's a very simplified, broken down version of the kirtle and gown I'm attempting. My version is closer to the cutting layout of "Tudor Tailor" and "Pattern Book".

My chemise is already completed (uh, well minus finishing the hem [you're surprised?] and neckhole), and is of white cotton muslin. I normally use unbleached muslin for my earlier period chemises because (for me) it represents the less refined aspects of medieval clothing.

So keep an eye on this blog for more updates. I have 3 major projects going right now, and several smaller ones in the works.

Also, I'm experimenting with a toddler line of basic t-tunics, early period peplos, and Persian coats that will go on eBay next weekend hopefully.

News and More Promises for forthcoming pictures

First of all, the black and white Pennsic pictures are still being developed by my sister and scanned and I'm waiting for my next check to get the color photos printed. I PROMISE they'll be up before Christmas (preferably before Thanksgiving). Particularly, the tent photos and battle photos.

News:

Since our little Incipient Canton of Ealdnordwuda (no, don't try to spell it OR say it--we don't either, hehehe) has FINALLY gained full status as real Canton (Cue: Pinocchio voice "I'm a real Canton!"), we'll be elevated at 12th Night this year in the Barony of Cynnabar. This is *ideal* because we won't have to worry about running an event and Cynnabar is a friendly local Barony that will gladly share the limelight with us at their magnificent 12th Night celebration.

This means two things for me.

1.) I must prepare a small gift for Their Majesties in thanks for elevating us. And perhaps something for the Baron and Baroness of Cynnabar for hosting our elevation on their 12th Night.

AND (You knew this was coming.)

2.) I GET TO MAKE A NEW OUTFIT!

I'm still in the planning stages, but presumably, it will be:

--a white muslin slip-type chemise that commercially looks a bit like this one from Revival Clothing


Here is one art example from period. There are plenty more on this site from the Wenceslaus Bible. Excellent examples.


--A GFG (gothic-fitted gown ala Robin Netherton) easy-fit (translation: wide enough to get it over my gigantic boobs with fitted enough not to bunch up under the over-gown) kirtle in white muslin dyed with RIT (unfortunately I don't really have time to gather anything natural and process it properly) in dark chocolate brown. I find this looks better than brown quilting cotton solids. Much better drape and softer, but still rich in hue. Muslin seems to hold the color better than white quilting cotton solid too. I'll use lacing on the sleeves instead of buttons.

--A GFG front-laced, short-sleeve in medium-heavy natural colored linen dyed maroon with RIT with turn-back tippets lined in white lightweight linen (my one splurge--everything else I have in the closet of DOOM!). The skirt and bodice will be lined in white muslin to fool the eyes and the pocketbook into thinking I actually have money for full linen-lined garb. This woman has a great site with tons of pictures of her creations spanning the centuries. She does a great recreation of a short-sleeve GFG/kirtle (no fold-back tippets, but I can easily add them to the sleeve cut) here.

A good period contemporary art perspective on this look with the tippets (that I and others more scholarly predict were most likely fold-back as opposed to separate attachments) is from the Les Tres Riches Heures April illumination
You can see the woman kneeling to the middle right of the couples. She's is wearing a black/dark green/dark brown over-gown with white tippets and a white lining or a white hem at the bottom. Her kirtle is blue without visible sleeve buttons, but I'll be lacing them discreetly from the elbow.

The Tres artwork and the rather good accompanying article is hosted here. This is an excellent presentation with zoomable images for each month.

--A new oval veil and barbette in lightweight linen (from the tippet lining buy since I'm only using enough in the sleeves to do the fold back plus an inch and the tippet lengths). I'd like to use tissue weight linen, but this is just not possible.

--I'm investigating the possibility of making or having someone make for me (Emma?) two matched hair nets to approximate cauls for my temple braids with a crochet technique as explained here. There is thankfully extant examples of these types of nets as seen on the above site, however, I'm keeping it simple and doing a plain weave net.

I'd like to attach them to a dark bronze colored satin ribbon to tie around my head under my veil. I don't have the money for a metal circlet (or a right to wear one yet, not being an official Lady). Some people don't care, but for me it's important to have the AoA first. That's how I play the game. Makes it more special for me.


Here's an art perspective from the statue of Jeanne de Bourbon from Cynthia Virtue's excellent page on simple cauls

And here is an even closer art representation of what I'd like to recreate with these caul nets from the funeral brass of Sir Symon de Felbrigge and Margaret his wife, 1400. Felbrigge, Norfolk. Note the veils over and under her cauls. Mine will be less rigid, but this is closer than Jeanne de Bourbon because Margaret does not wear a crown. This is clip art from the Florida Center for Instructional Technology at the University of South Florida, but the funeral brass picture itself falls under public domain usage rules.


--Also planning on treating myself to a pair of period shoes for Christmas to complete the outfit.

So that's it for now. Updates soon and more frequently as construction of the outfit begins.

Yours in Service,
Gillian de Chelseye

Middle-class 1530's Tudor Garb Kit for the Pennsic Class.

Ok, so I'm off and running (finally!) on theiTudor kit and I'm finally feeling like I may be able to finish everything if I stay up really late all the time and do my hand-sewing and on-paper designs when the girls are sleeping. I can't use the sewing machine, so that sort of sucks.

I got a promise to borrow a camera from Iohann, and now I have my nice 35mm SLR for Pennsic, so expect many more pics in the next two weeks, if not right after I return from Pennsic. I may wait to update (prolly not...I egt bored) until after I don't have as much work to do.

I'll finish my on-paper Tudor chemise design today and be able to cut and sew tonight. I have to help my grandma water the garden right after work, but other than that, I'm home free. I cleaned the house except for the dishes last night and got my unfinished chemise finished finally. That thing's been waiting for gores since January.

So now I have three chemises. Two in High Middle Ages period design, and another longer one cut like a sleeveless princess seam dress for ease of use as a faux 14th century kirtle. Cheating...yes I know, but comfortable.

Ok so as for that Tudor kit...
I'm sweating this one. I want it to look good but I'm worried I'll mess it up! I've got so much work to do, but with the help of The Tudor Tailor, I should be fine. I need to make: *the chemise *the kirtle *the gown *the overgown (if I have time) and *the headdress

The period tent is what I'm most worried about. If I don't finish it, I'm out of a big place to sleep and I'm stuck in a tiny, fragile dome tent for 10 days...eww. The wood for the support is what I'm most worried about. The wood I have is not going to work. I may just have to cut fresh poles out of the woodlot and lash them together and tie the tent to the lashed poles. Unfortunately, in a wind, I can't trust these, but Iohann will have to share if my tent collapses. We just don't have the room to take three tents, including my huge one. I'm trying to check to see if almost all my regular camp stuff minus chairs and other large things will fit into all my rubbermaid containers. The packing will be easier and we can just stack and lash everything in a cube and throw the poles and Iohann's spear along the side of them. The shield and his armor bag can lash to the top with duct tape. I'm scared it won't all fit, but we deserve a medal if we get it all there in one piece. Guess I'm borrowing Dad's tie-downs!

Oh well...we'll get through this and have a fun Pennsic!